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08 fevereiro, 2010

sobre a etiqueta na Filosofia, por Renato Janine Ribeiro

Olho Grego
Os temas pequenos da filosofia

Renato Janine Ribeiro

De onde vem a palavra etiqueta, usada para tratar dos bons modos, maneiras decentes e gestos bem educados? Uma etimologia tenaz a deriva da "pequena ética", uma vez que em espanhol e mesmo em português podemos usar o sufixo -eta como diminutivo: a etiqueta seria então uma ética menor. Hobbes, por exemplo, diz a certa altura do Leviatã (1651) que não vai tratar de small morals, da moral pequena, da moralzinha. É uma forma de traduzir a etiqueta.
Outra origem se encontra nos dicionários de francês: étiquette seria o rótulo que se colocava nos sacos em que se guardavam processos judiciais, na França do século XVI. A etiqueta-rótulo dizia o que estava contido dentro deles. Por- tanto, a etiqueta seria um rótulo. É algo que está fora que indica o que ou quem está dentro. É uma aparência que mostra a essência.

A etiqueta se impõe na passagem da Idade Média à Renascença. Foi tema fartamente estudado por Norbert Elias, Johan Huizinga e por mim mesmo. Ela une os dois sentidos acima. Por um lado, é um conjunto de regras que não tem a profundidade da grande moral, da verdadeira ética. São regras que devem ser seguidas. Uma ética mais forte não tem rol do que é certo ou errado.

As duas etiquetas


Anos atrás, Antonio Candido me disse que havia duas etiquetas, ambas se constituindo no final da Idade Média. Uma era a etiqueta da submissão diante da hierarquia, que nasce na corte de Borgonha. Outra era a etiqueta entre iguais, que cresce nos Países Baixos. Ambas demonstram respeito. Mas um é o respeito do inferior, outro o do igual.

Fui pesquisar isso e acabei escrevendo um pequeno livro a respeito, A etiqueta no Antigo Regime, que deve bastante a Norbert Elias e a Johan Huizinga. É curioso que as duas etiquetas tenham nascido em terras que pertenciam ao mesmo senhor, o duque de Borgonha - embora a Borgonha propriamente dita fosse domínio feudal e os Países Baixos, cidades autônomas e desenvolvidas.

Mas o ponto principal é que, em face de uma Idade Média rústica, o século XIV cria costumes mais refinados. Os bons modos são uma forma de demonstrar respeito diante do outro. Há vários tipos de outro. Um é o príncipe. Diante dele, as pessoas se ajoelham: elas o veneram quase como se ele fosse o próprio Cristo. Outro é o tipo de respeito dos burgueses entre si. Huizinga conta uma história de dois cidadãos que se encontram numa ruela muito estreita, e ficam um pedindo ao outro que passe, "não, o senhor primeiro": quinze minutos de rapapés.
E há ainda a mulher. Respeitar a mulher exige um cuidado com a linguagem e a postura física que rompe com os modos medievais. No começo do século XIII, quando morre o conde Guilherme Marechal, regente da Inglaterra, nem se mencionam os nomes de sua mulher e filhas. Elas mal aparecem. Entretanto, quando vão aumentando os torneios, ocasiões em que os nobres simulam guerrear em frente às mulheres, elas vão adquirindo importância. Isso significa adotar maneiras mais cuidadas, evitar grosserias e se refinar.

Civilização

Um dos principais livros de Norbert Elias é O processo civilizador, em que ele conta, com detalhes, mas também com interpretações refinadas, essa gradual conquista da educação sobre a grosseria. (Devo dizer que nem todos o leem assim. Alguns acham que ele mostra como os "bons modos" são uma forma - violenta - de impor ordem na sociedade, lançando desdém sobre os rústicos).
Talvez sua ideia mais oportuna de lembrar, hoje, seja que a exibição cada vez maior do corpo, sobretudo feminino, nas últimas décadas vem junto com um aumento de autocontrole. É o contrário do que imaginaríamos à primeira vista. Quando se adota o biquíni e depois o fio-dental, tem-se a impressão de que um, permitam a palavra, liberou geral. Mas não é nada disso. O homem que vê uma mulher com quase todo o corpo nu tem que agir como se ela estivesse inteiramente vestida. Não pode atacá-la, não pode desrespeitá-la. Mas isso exige esforço por parte dele.

Portanto, não ocorrem apenas mudanças porque as pessoas usam roupas mais exíguas. Elas ocorrem também porque quem lida com elas tem de se adaptar a isso. O aparente "ganho" erótico de enxergar mais do corpo alheio é compensado por um seguro "custo" de ter que se conter mais que no passado. Os jovens que vaiaram uma colega na Uniban porque usava um microvestido, que o digam: faltou-lhes autocontenção.
Por isso, o que temos em cena não é algo apenas político. É claro que podemos fazer uma interpretação política do que as boas maneiras representam. Mas seu principal papel é social, mais que político. Constrói-se, nas palavras de Elias, uma civilização. Os costumes são civilizados. (O livro dele, A civilização dos costumes, deve ter o título entendido como o civilizar dos costumes, e não como uma civilização que se caracterizaria pelos costumes). Isso muda o mundo.

Questões Pequenas

A etiqueta, dizia, é uma pequena ética. As questões de que Elias trata são pequenas, também. Mas são fundamentais. Dizem respeito ao que Foucault chamaria uma microfisica. Cobrem ações que afetam o dia-a-dia de todos: são dezenas ou centenas de bilhões de gestos diários que expressam nosso respeito, nossa contenção - ou nosso desdém, quem sabe.
Norbert Elias demorou, talvez por se ocupar de matéria considerada pequena, para ser reconhecido. Escreveu sua grande obra, que mencionei, em 1939. Alemão, ele estava exilado na Inglaterra. Mal se notou esse livro. Chegou, na década de 1960, a ir dar aulas na recém-independente Gana, o que mostra como a academia o ignorava. Contudo, em seus últimos anos de vida, teve reconhecimento. Hoje, é uma referência obrigatória nas Ciências Sociais e na História - e as questões que levanta têm forte interesse filosófico, quando mais não seja porque a "pequena ética" nos faz perguntar sobre suas fronteiras com uma "grande ética"

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